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A Note from Dennis Kamstra....
I've been shooting Stotler bows for 17 yrs. now. I have 7 different models both one piece and takedown. The main thing for me is that there is no difference in performance between the two. Probably the main reason for this is that all the take down models are made as a one piece bow and then cut to make a take down. So, the riser section and lams are all the from the same piece of wood, glass, or graphite. Some of the reasons why I like these bows:
1. Flat bow design along with long riser and short limbs make for a "straight line" string follow. This makes for very forgiving shooting (something I need during the heat of the action). "Hay hook" released do not affect arrow flight with this design (as much as thin, whippy limbs).
2. The radical reflex/deflex limbs produce better than normal speed
3. The long riser, puts more physical weight in center of bow, making it more stable upon release. In fact, I like to use Winge, or Cocobola wood for risers since the wood is more dense (heavier).
4. With the built up limb tips, I can shoot Fast Flight strings with no problem.
5. I favor all models with Bamboo lams. This seems to produce a much smoother draw (quite noticable- If you have not shot one with Bamboo lams, DON'T, because it will spoil you.
6. I have found the 63 " model to be a bit faster and the 66" model to be more stable. For hunting I normally stick with my 70 lb. 63" takedown (especially if I'm shooting from blinds- shorter limbs means less problem of contact with parts of blind). If you want to go to real heavy wt. bow (over 75 lbs.) I recommend the 66" model. For target shooting, I always go back to my 66"/60 lb./ One piece (I just love the way that bow shoots).
7. One good thing about a "custom" bow is that you can make the handle any way you wish. I prefer to "palm" my bow (probably because I shoot heavy tackle and I seem to get more strength with a "broomstick" hand as vs. the "pistol grip").
I knew and worked with Bob Stotler before his death and can tell you that this ol gent knew what he was doing when he first came up with this design. Bob was the head bowyer for Howard Hill Co. for 27 yrs. Howard loved the way this design shot.
A little hint, if you like to "tweak" things: Play around with the brace height a little. I think you will find a shorter brace height will give you a better "sweet spot". I also have my bow cut with very little shelf above my grip hand. I like to have the arrow as close to my thumb as possible (makes instinctive shots much more "natural").
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